- #Installed a fast 1.0 and my car dies after a few minutes for free
- #Installed a fast 1.0 and my car dies after a few minutes full
This little trick will fix a surprising number of no start problems. The battery posts and inside of the battery post terminals should be scraped clean with a knife or battery post cleaner tool. It does not have to be installed in the car to have it checked you can carry it with you to the auto parts store. Most auto parts stores will check your battery for free. Less than this will result in a clicking solenoid, or slow cranking (if it cranks at all) or a starter solenoid that sticks and welds the contacts together.
#Installed a fast 1.0 and my car dies after a few minutes full
A good battery will measure 12-13 volts at full charge with the ignition switch in the Run position but without the engine running.Ī voltmeter placed across the battery terminals should show a minimum of 9.5-10 volts when the ignition switch is turned to the Start position and the starter engages or tries to engage. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…ġ.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery for low charge and dead cells. Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Use the same initial group of tests to find the root cause of both no crank and stuck solenoid problems. For that reason, they are grouped together. slow crank and stuck starter solenoid problems have the same root causes – low battery voltage and poor connections.
Slow crank - see the diagnostic section below: A high resistance connection would only show up when there is a cranking load on the battery, wiring and ground. Saleen0679 was nice enough to dig this up for us awhile back: Replace a 1979-1993 Ignition Switch Assembly Some of the symptoms of ignition switch problems are things that don’t work or are intermittent like radio, wipers or heater. The auto parts stores sell the switches for $13-$15.
#Installed a fast 1.0 and my car dies after a few minutes for free
Since this is very old information, you may not be able to get the switch replaced for free anymore. That burns up the steering column and sometimes the car interior. There was a FREE recall on Ford ignition switches. Low cost first step: replace the ignition switch as recommended above. Havent checked the pressure yet when its dead. Lastly just installed a Fuel Press gauge on rail.
Played with key and Ignition seems to be ok.Ĭhecked for loss of spark. Some RTV around the TFI plug ( was a little loose )Ĭhecked the EEC relay ( also banged it around some to check ) Ground down and resanded the grounds through the car ( block, trunk, EEC, and batt. Known good Distributor ( motorcraft TFI and pickup) Here is the list of parts we have tried so far to diag the problem with no luck. Soooo, a buddy of mine gave me this site to try out and hopefully can find some useful information to help me out. 14.4V with fans on and a little less than that when shes cold/low idle (13.8). Car has a trunk mounted battery with all correct wiring. I can wait 5 min after she sits and it will slow crank and then start. Other times, it has such a hard time to restart, like a bad draw on starter. Sometimes the car will die where I can click the IGN off and back on and she will continue to fire, like nothing happened. I've been bringing it to my local speed shop, since i'm recently getting ready for a newborn and don't have a lot of time to be ohming out wires and checking grounds. Its like someone turned off the key on me, the tac just drops and the car basically shuts off. I've built this car up over the years and suddenly over the past year i've been dealing with this drivability issue where the car suddenly dies as i'm driving it down the road. Well, its been about 3 months now since i've been pursuing this issue.
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